Chocolate chip is a pretty forgiving cookie. I have bags of various whole-grain flours in my freezer, and I’ve found that making a batch is an excellent way to use up the odd bits. Using 100% whole wheat made a great cookie, especially with an extra pinch of sea salt. So did a blend of gluten-free flours, which baked slightly thinner and had a lighter taste, more like Toll House. The key with these cookies—and all the others—was refrigerating the dough overnight. It’s been written about plenty before (did Jacques Torres talk about it first?), but after doing several back-to-back comparisons, I have been astounded by the difference that refrigerating dough has on most cookies. It’s as if the dough has time to marinate in its own sugars and salt, liquefying and dispersing more evenly throughout. This hang-time in the fridge not only affects flavor but also appearance: bake whole-wheat cookies without refrigerating the dough first and the cookie never gets the same nice level of caramelization on top. The crinkles on the top come out better, too, with less uniformity.
What about those gluten-free flours? Sorghum and millet are both on the mild side, with a pleasant whole-grain flavor without being too domineering. Teff is much darker than the others, but it deepened the color of the cookie in a nice, whole-grain kind of way. This recipe is gluten-free, but you can just as easily make the recipe with 100% whole-wheat flour, or a blend of various flours, and it will work. Just weigh out 185 grams of flour, which amounts to about 1¼ cups.
Whole-Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies
Makes 20 cookies
50 g /1/2 c oat flour
65 g / ½ c sorghum flour
25 g / ¼ c millet flour
20 g / 2 heaping tbsp teff flour
4 g / 3/4 t fine sea salt (or 1 tsp kosher salt)
1.5 g / ½ t baking powder
1.5 g / ½ t baking soda
113 g / 4 oz unsalted butter
95 g / ½ c granulated sugar
90 g / ½ c brown sugar
1 large egg
5 g / 1 tsp vanilla extract
113 g / ⅔ chocolate chips
In a bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, baking powder, and baking soda.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the sugars and cream until the butter mixture is aerated and pale in color, 4 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula.
Crack the eggs into a bowl and add the vanilla.
On medium speed, briefly mix the egg and vanilla into the butter mixture, 20 to 30 seconds or until nearly homogeneous.
Add the dry ingredients all at once and mix on low speed briefly, about 30 seconds. Add the chocolate chips and mix briefly. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand.
Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap and wrap tightly. Refrigerate 2 hours or up to 3 days.
Preheat an oven to 350°F. Line 2 sheet pans with parchment paper. Using a ¾-ounce (1½-tablespoon) ice cream scoop, portion the dough into 12 mounds onto each sheet pan.
Bake 1 pan at a time for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake until the edges begin to caramelize and the tops set, 5 to 8 more minutes. Let cool on the pan. Repeat with remaining dough.